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2013 Ao-Yun, Shangri-La, ChinaA true first. The first fine Chinese wine. In the glass this is inky purple, it just looks like a fine Cabernet. Aromas of perfectly ripe fresh blackcurrant and redcurrant leap from the glass with notes of five spice, a little blackcurrant leaf, fresh coffee and just a note of something more savoury beneath. On the palate this is super fine, it is cool, erudite and urbane. The finish is longer and finer than many a traditional Claret Ive tasted this

Working the vineyards largely without chemicals

unlike most Port houses

facing south with classic Kimmeridgian limestone soil

red-fruited mid-palate

Disgorged: April

As readers will remember

velvety tannins supporting the generous black fruit preserves layers

ripe dark wild raspberries and blackberries

The 2021 vintage combines Merlot (52%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (44%) and a dash of Cabernet Franc (4%)

It’s an essential read for anyone who wants to understand the world’s most famous wine region

a chalky texture

A very linear acidic line maintains wonderful focus on this beautifully elegant Blanc de Blancs